Travel Guide

Link: http://www.seeinghands.com/

Referring to Granada’s reputation as Nicaragua’s prettiest city, the sign outside the Casa De Los Leones cultural centre proclaims: “no hay en el mundo nada mas triste que ciego ser y estar viviendo en Granada” (there is nothing sadder in the world than to be blind and to live in Granada).

Just a short walk from this sign, on the opposite side (North West corner) of the Parque Central, is a hopeful challenge to that statement. Seeing Hands is a project that refuses to accent the “dis” in disability. Probably premised on the idea that losing one sense can heighten one’s awareness of other senses, Seeing Hands is a massage service provided by local sight-impaired people.

Traveling in Latin America for any length of time can provide a stark exposure to how desperately grim the lives of people with disabilities can be when combined with profound poverty. For that reason, empowering projects like Seeing Hands are wonderful to encounter. Seeing Hands provides training and economic opportunity to people who face incredibly challenging life circumstances. Founded by Jack Morgan from the US about 3 years ago, Seeing Hands has 3 massage therapists in its original Granada location and has also expanded to other locations within Nicaragua. The massages are cheap (where else will you find a $5 massage?) but professional and are strongly recommended. You can also support the project directly - more details are available at: http://www.seeinghands.com/

Catedral Vieja, Managua, Nicaragua

Managua is a living expression of compromise and resilience.

Like in countries such as Brazil and Australia, Nicaragua’s capital was chosen as an alternative to deciding on the competing claims of two more obviously qualified candidates. When Managua was declared the nation’s capital in 1852, Nicaragua’s two principal cities of Leon and Granada were dangerously polarised along political lines (Leon being the Liberal party’s stronghold and Granada being the base of the Conservatives). Thus in an attempt to foster national unity (unsuccessful in the immediate term as it turned out) Managua was chosen as capital and continues in this role today.

Located on the shores of Lake Managua, the capital lacks the same quality of architectural heritage as the colonial cities of Granada and Leon. Additionally the earthquakes of 1931 and 1972 both decimated the city. Almost completely rebuilt since the last cataclysm (despite the city’s precarious position over 14 seismic faults), Managua lacks the charm and attractiveness that can be found in other parts of the city. But it has to be given credit for still existing - despite all the odds.

For people visiting Nicaragua who are short on time, a brief tour of the city by car may satisfy their curiousity about the capital before they move on to other more aesthetically attractive locations in Nicaragua. Taxi driver Henry Collado provides good value tours (starting at $20 for two hours) as well as a taxi service and can be found on the road just outside the airport (or ask for “barba” - “the beard"). You can ring Henry at +505 8678-6891.

“Barba”

Granada, Nicaragua on the shores of Lake Nicaragua

When Captain Francisco Hernandez De Cordoba founded Granada in Nicaragua as a Spanish colony in 1524, he could not have known how durable his city would become. In enduring since its year of creation, Granada has been continuously inhabited in the same location longer than any other city that the Spanish founded in mainland continental America. In part in recognition of this fact, the Nicaraguan currency, the Cordoba, is named after Granada’s founder.

Granada, which today is an attractive city with colonial buildings on the shore of Lake Nicaragua, has had to endure some serious threats to its survival as well as offences to its pride over the course of its longevity. Granada was initially the second most important political centre in Central America (after La Antigua Guatemala), yet lost out to less prosperous Leon as the initial capital of Nicaragua. Later when tensions between liberal Leon and conservative Granada threatened to produce violent conflict, both cities were overlooked for capital in favour of the compromise choice of Managua.

Granada was burned to the ground by US Filibusterer William Walker in 1856. Walker was an opportunist and adventurer who by a mixture of violence and cunning installed himself as President of Nicaragua that year. His destruction of Granada was one of his last acts before he was defeated by a coalition of Central American states whose military actions were financed by Cornelius Vanderbildt.

For the modern day tourist, Granada has many fine churches (including one that Bartolome De Las Casas preached from), is renowned for the quality of its barbers (the best $3 haircut you are likely to get!), has an excellent Seeing Hands massage service provided by local blind people and is a convenient jumping off point to explore eco-tourism sites such as Las Isletas (tiny islands on Lake Nicaragua), Volcan Mombacho and Archipielago Zapatera (an archaeology site that highlights the culture that thrived in this region until being overwhelmed by the Spanish arrival).

Casa San Francisco (near the interesting and informative San Francisco convent museum) is a good place to stay, with helpful and friendly staff. Ramon Herrera (tel +505-255-27139) arranges boat tours to Las Islettas for about $20 per person.)

Link: http://www.fuegoyagua.com/index.php/new+york:?blog=8

Gray’s Papaya, NYC

Amidst all of New York’s abundant wonders, it is perhaps its culinary culture that bestows the most generous delights to residents and visitors alike. Without leaving the boundaries of New York City, you can lustily eat your way across the continents, sampling the mouth-watering ambassadors of almost every culture on Earth. My own gastronomic journey of delight and discovery was guided by Grace, a native New Yorker to whom I am indebted for the following itinerary:

Food-Stop 1 - Europe

You can opt for a bit of European swish at The Orchard, which serves paella and pasta in an upscale environment, or go no frills at Joe’s Pizza which is cheap, delicious and almost as famous as fans of its food such as Ben Affleck or alternatively brave the long queues at Grimaldis, renowned for serving Brooklyn’s (and for many, New York’s) finest pizza.

If your taste buds yearn for Eastern accented dishes, then some Jewish fare at Yonah Schimmels Knish Bakery is recommended for doughy delights while The Wall Street Bath does its bit to redeem the standing of Russian food with fine fare to enjoy post- Russian sauna and Turkish steam room.

Food-Stop 2 - Asia
Taking your taste-buds to China should at a minimum introduce them to both China Town Ice Cream Factory, which serves some of the best ice-cream in the city in a much awarded eatery and Joe’s Shanghai which is renowned for its bliss-inducing scallion pancakes and heavenly soup dumplings.

The India / Nepal / Tibet part of the tour can include a leisurely sit down meal at Himalayan Yak Restaurant which is worth coming to for the Egg Drop Soup alone. If however you need to grab food on the go then The Indian Bread Company followed by the Maharaja Food Inc is a good combo. The Maharaja is notable for both delightful fruit flavored Indian ice-creams and the adorably named pink chum chums ("imagine what pink tastes like” as one young customer described them).

A whistle stop visit to Thailand can be enjoyable accomplished at Pam Real Thai Food while Roosevelt Avenue, Queens features a worm-hole directly to the Philippines in the shape of a branch of the Filipino fast food chain Jollibee. Although Jollibee food isn’t anything out of the ordinary, the thronging clientele make it hard to believe you are anywhere other than in the heart of downtown Manila).

Finally, if you want to do a quick detour to Japan for some Sushi try either Tomoe Sushi or Yama, the later being notable for serving knock-out sushi in a less than pristine environment.

Food-Stop 3 - America

For the contenders for best burgers in town you should sample the wares of Shake Shack - the Madison Sq Park branch being a delightful outdoor location to complement the excellent burgers, 5 Guys a chain that has recently been sprinkled with the Obama star-dust and the excellent Corner Bistro.

For hot dogs, the offerings at Gray’s Papaya may not wow every visitor (though the flavorsome twists they put on their dogs do have a loyal fan base) but they are damn cheap and something of a local legend, so should be tried regardless. The local clientele can be, er… interesting.

The Righteous Urban Barbeque is worth stopping by for an introduction to Southern cooking through deep fried Oreos. Meanwhile you will be hard pressed to find a better hot chocolate than at The City Bakery or better cheesecake than at
Venieros.

Food-Stop 4 - Transcendent Pan Dimensional Mobile Desert Experience
Wherever you go for your food tour, the last stop should be to treat yourself to the wonders of Desert Truck. It does exactly what it says on the tin.

Link: http://www.fuegoyagua.com/index.php/eastern-caribbean/dominicaphotos/?blog=8

The emerald paradise island of Dominica in the Eastern Caribbean

The island paradise of Dominica is notable for both its pristine natural beauty and for being home to a living Carib culture. This video discusses both some of the natural features of the island and the cultural legacy of the mountainous, rugged and wildly beautiful terrain - the continued existence of the Carib population - a culture that was almost entirely eradicated on all other islands. In particular, the video retells the story of Massacre, the town named after an English officer called Philip Warner murdered his Carib half brother as a signal to commence the bloody slaughter of the local indigenous population.