Travel Guide

Link: http://www.fuegoyagua.com/index.php/nicaraguaphotos/?blog=8

The trail to Cascadas De San Ramon, Isla De Ometepe, Nicaragua

Nicaragua is Central America’s largest country by area (about 130,000 sq km) but has a relatively small population of just short of 6 million people. Located on the junction of three continental plates, Nicaragua is periodically shook by volcanic eruptions and earthquakes - such as the event that destroyed the capital Managua in 1972. The legacy of this techtonic volatility, matched by an equally turbulant political history (revolutionary slogans are still evident on political posters throughout the country) partly explains the desperate poverty of the country - the second poorest in the Western Hemisphere (80% of the population live on less than $2 a day).

In contrast to the difficult circumstances faced by the majority of its population, Nicaragua offers a range of genuine delights for foreign tourists. Spectacular natural beauty (volcanoes, wildlife, lakes and waterfalls) can be found in locations such as Isla De Ometepe, there is a fine colonial heritage to be witnessed in the architecture of cities such as Leon and Granada and beaches on the Caribbean and Pacific Coasts. The country is also safer and less violent than more troubled Central America republics like Guatemala, Honduras and El Salvador.

San Juan Del Sur is located on Nicaragua’s Pacific coast and close to the Costa Rican border. Other locations in Nicaragua offer much more variety in the activities available to tourists, but your ambitions don’t extend much beyond relaxing on an attractive beach and a dip in the Pacific, this may be the place for you.

The Villa Isabella is a pleasant, well run and friendly hotel that is recommended as a base during your stay here.

Link: http://www.fuegoyagua.com/index.php/isla+de+ometepe:?blog=8

Butterflies in Hotel/Restaurant Santa Cruz, Santa Cruz, Isla De Ometepe

The largest freshwater island in the world, Nicaragua’s Isla De Ometepe is an eco-tourism paradise. There are two imposing volcanoes to hike (the 1610m Concepcion and 1394m Maderas) a beautiful waterfall to discover (the 110m Cascadas De San Ramon - $3 entry and about a 2 and a half hour hike round trip), crystaline mineral pools to bathe in (Ojo Del Agua - $2 entry), petroglyphs to admire (at various locations throughout the island) and of course a range of watersports to enjoy in the surrounding waters of Lake Nicaragua (the largest lake in Central America - Hacienda Merida has a great selection of water activities).

Ometepe is at once tranquil and gloriously alive. Wandering the dirt trails of the island are an array of farm animals (pigs, chickens, cattle, horses, sheep) that local farmers apparently trust to return home at nightfall. An incredible array of butterflies ensure that tiny flying explosions of colour vibrantly decorate the island. Howler monkey’s noisly announce themselves to hikers who venture into their territory.

The creation myth surrounding Ometepe is Romeo & Juliet tale befitting of such a beautiful environment:
Before Lago de Nicaragua or Isla de Ometepe existed there was a lush valley of the gods named Valle de Coapolca. Surrounding the valley were four warring tribes. Nagrando, a young warrior from one of these tribes and Ometepetl, a beautiful young woman from an enemy tribe met and fell in love. Despite trying to keep their love secret, they were discovered and Ometepetl’s father vowed to kill Nagrando. The young lovers fled and hid in the forest, where they decided that the only way they could be together was to both die by suicide. They slit their wrists and died in each other’s arms. As Ometepetl fell backwards, the sky darkened and rains flooded the valley, forming Lake Nicaragua. Ometepetl’s breasts then grew into the twin peaks of Volcan Concepcion and Volcan Maderas, and Nagrando’s body became nearby Isla Zapatera.

When visiting this wonderful island, a great place to stay is Finca Del Sol in Santa Cruz (conveniently located for Volcan Maderas, Ojo Del Agua and Playa Santa Domingo). Fincal Del Sol provides economical and comfortable eco-Cabanas (about $34 per night with a compost toilet) in a beautiful setting. Owners Sheri and Christiano are friendly and helpful hosts as well as being fabulous cooks (their $10 dinners are highly recommended).

Link: http://www.seeinghands.com/

Referring to Granada’s reputation as Nicaragua’s prettiest city, the sign outside the Casa De Los Leones cultural centre proclaims: “no hay en el mundo nada mas triste que ciego ser y estar viviendo en Granada” (there is nothing sadder in the world than to be blind and to live in Granada).

Just a short walk from this sign, on the opposite side (North West corner) of the Parque Central, is a hopeful challenge to that statement. Seeing Hands is a project that refuses to accent the “dis” in disability. Probably premised on the idea that losing one sense can heighten one’s awareness of other senses, Seeing Hands is a massage service provided by local sight-impaired people.

Traveling in Latin America for any length of time can provide a stark exposure to how desperately grim the lives of people with disabilities can be when combined with profound poverty. For that reason, empowering projects like Seeing Hands are wonderful to encounter. Seeing Hands provides training and economic opportunity to people who face incredibly challenging life circumstances. Founded by Jack Morgan from the US about 3 years ago, Seeing Hands has 3 massage therapists in its original Granada location and has also expanded to other locations within Nicaragua. The massages are cheap (where else will you find a $5 massage?) but professional and are strongly recommended. You can also support the project directly - more details are available at: http://www.seeinghands.com/

Catedral Vieja, Managua, Nicaragua

Managua is a living expression of compromise and resilience.

Like in countries such as Brazil and Australia, Nicaragua’s capital was chosen as an alternative to deciding on the competing claims of two more obviously qualified candidates. When Managua was declared the nation’s capital in 1852, Nicaragua’s two principal cities of Leon and Granada were dangerously polarised along political lines (Leon being the Liberal party’s stronghold and Granada being the base of the Conservatives). Thus in an attempt to foster national unity (unsuccessful in the immediate term as it turned out) Managua was chosen as capital and continues in this role today.

Located on the shores of Lake Managua, the capital lacks the same quality of architectural heritage as the colonial cities of Granada and Leon. Additionally the earthquakes of 1931 and 1972 both decimated the city. Almost completely rebuilt since the last cataclysm (despite the city’s precarious position over 14 seismic faults), Managua lacks the charm and attractiveness that can be found in other parts of the city. But it has to be given credit for still existing - despite all the odds.

For people visiting Nicaragua who are short on time, a brief tour of the city by car may satisfy their curiousity about the capital before they move on to other more aesthetically attractive locations in Nicaragua. Taxi driver Henry Collado provides good value tours (starting at $20 for two hours) as well as a taxi service and can be found on the road just outside the airport (or ask for “barba” - “the beard"). You can ring Henry at +505 8678-6891.

“Barba”