Travel Guide

Arco De El Carmen in San Cristobal De Las Casas

San Cristobal De Las Casas in Chiapas, Mexico is one of the most charming examples in Latin America of vibrant city bustle bounded by beautiful Spanish colonial architecture.

San Cristobal presents an interesting contrast to another gorgeous colonial city in the region - Antigua in Guatemala. The energy in San Cristobal is naturally relaxed and authentic whereas Antigua has a slightly unreal, theme park feel with an underlying threat of violence never far from its picture perfect outer wrapping.

San Cristobal seems relatively more comfortable in its own skin - probably because the population of 80,000 is mostly comprised of indigenous Maya whose heritage in this region has been established over milenia. Demographic changes over the last 30 years mean that Spanish is now a minority language in San Cristobal - as it is in surrounding towns like Chamula and Zinacantan where local Maya dialects are the lingua franca. In Antigua, Spanish at times feels like a minority language - but only behind of the almost ubiquitous use of English by the swarming gringo population. Antigua lacks a sense of community rootedness, probably because it is geared so much to the needs of gringos and elite Guatemalans from the city. The indigenous take-over of San Cristobal (a relatively recent development) therefore presents a striking contrast.

Visitors to San Cristobal should check out the local textiles available at Sna Jolobil - far from cheap but utterly outstanding. The Na Bolom museum and restaurant is also highly recommended to get some local history and context.

The catholic church in Chamula is one of the most remarkable in Latin America.

Catholic churches, though sometimes glorious, are too often dark and austere places. Filled with grim iconography, many appear to be crypt-like fortresses against the vibrant pulse of the natural world. Perhaps nature is not fully welcome because it is so often portrayed as the source of original sin. The perception that the divine and the natural are antagonistic energies - that we remain defective until the soul escapes our impure prison of flesh - is arguable the tragic flaw of one of the world’s great religions, perhaps fatally subverting the spiritual journey of many adherents.

A wonderful, invigorating exception to the often self-defeating Catholic template for places to worship is the church at Chamula in Chiapas, Mexico. Chamula, a 10km collectivo ride from beautiful San Cristobal De Las Casas, is a bustling market town of some 60,000 Tzotzile Maya. It is thanks the local population - in particular their success in weaving pre-Christian beliefs and practices into their worship - that the Church in Chamula is so special.

The overwhelming sensation on entering the church is of light. Bright white-washed walls are given emphasis by wooden borders of the deepest browns. Floral satin banners with green, blue and gold tassels are suspended over the nave from roof beams of purest black. There are no chairs or pews in the church. Instead, the slippery smooth floor is carpeted with green pine needles, flickering flames and melted wax. Candles of multiple colours are planted on the floor, growing to between 10cm and half a metre in height. The wisps of smoke and smell of incense that permeate the church have been preceded by many ancestors. High above the altar, paintings have been blackened by centuries of smoky ritual and are now utterly unrecognizable.

Along the left and right wall of the church are glass cases with statues of colourfully robed saints such as Santa Rosa De Lima, Virgen de Magdalena and San Pedro, dueno de la llave (keeper of the key). Many of these saints wear mirrors on their clothes, tempting worshipers to see themselves reflected in the holy. In front of the saints, yet more candles flicker in homage, this time secured within drinking glasses that have been painted red and green with religious imagery.

A low melodic chanting gently fills the church. For the most part the only people standing are those with white skins and daypacks. Members of the local community that come here to worship sit or kneel directly on the floor amidst the pines, wax and bottles of two special liquids - one black and the other transparent. Coca Cola is said to be brought to the church used because evil spirits can be expelled by the belches fizzy drinks promote, while alcohol is perceived as a pathway to new spiritual insight.

The large crucifix near the church’s exit, provides the last, surreal digression from the expected. There is no Christ nailed to it. Instead it is generously padded and lavishly wrapped in a silver fabric with green and gold trim. This cross is not a grisly torture device - it looks oddly comfortable.

This wonderful church is beautiful, bizarre and spiritually vibrant. Emerging from the church, you can experience the busy local market and distinctive traditional dress that local men wear for ceremonies. But it is the amazing technicolour dream church that is Chamula’s chief delight.

Note: Visitors to Chamula should note that photography of the locals is strongly discouraged and photography inside the church is expressly forbidden.