Lago De Atitlan
According to local Maya myth, Lago De Atitlan is the sacred body of water that gave birth to our world. All that had existed before was the night sky and Atitlan lake. Then, from these waters emerged the mountains which lifted the sky and brought into being the world of tree, rock, animals and people. The three volcanoes that now ring the lake are special too - they represent the first firm ground to have emerged from the amniotic fluid of these magical waters.
It is not hard to see why mythic imagination was captivated by Lago De Atitlan and its three guardian volcanoes of Atitlán, San Pedro and Tolimán. Aldous Huxley famously described Atitlan as “the most beautiful lake in the world” and for many the lake does indeed evoke the same sacred quality that the Maya revered. Pilgrims from each part of the globe come to Atitlan to re-tune their internal energies, seeking resonance with the tranquil perfection of the lake and its setting.
Like so much of Guatemala, the peace and beauty of this landscape is a paradoxical product of nature’s most violent energies. The lake was formed after a series of major volcanic eruptions about 1.8 million years ago which resulted in the collapse of a large expanse of land into a crater that Atitlan now occupies. Recognised as the deepest lake in Central America (estimated at up to 340 metres deep), Atitlan’s location in Guatemala’s highlands makes it popular for divers wishing to practice making dives at altitude.
The lake exists as an oases of calm surrounded by the hectic energies of the local settlements it supports. Tourism fuels a significant portion of the local economy and many expatriates have been seduced into taking up longer term residency on Atitlan’s shores. This influx of foreigners is the current expression of a colonialism that still endures almost 500 years after the first Spanish conquest of the Maya. Many of the best lakeshore properties are foreign-owned and gringo communities can be found around the lake living almost as culturally distinct independent republics.
The main transit point for people arriving in or leaving Atitlan is Panajachel, the area’s principal settlement. From Panajachel you can catch lanchas (motorboat taxis) to towns such as Santiago (home of both the wonderfully odd, vice-ridden saint Maximom and galleries showcasing some talented local artists), Santa Cruz (where the Iguana Perdita Hostel hosts a regular Saturday night drag dinner for guests), San Pedro (famed for its notable drug culture) and San Marcos (now a new age chill-out centre with yoga, meditation, reiki etc). My favorite find so far is La Casa Del Mundo - a beautifully designed hotel / cafe that is a short walk from Santa Cruz and where you can eat breakfast whilst enjoying the most gorgeous views.
Atitlan is also one of the main centres of Guatemala’s Spanish language teaching sector - students can take their pick from a number of schools dotted around the lake. But whether one’s surface motivation for going to Atitlan is to learn Spanish, to go Scuba diving or to seek personal growth, there is a deeper call for choosing this place above others. This is a location of the most wonderful natural beauty and peace. The ancient Maya were right - a journey to Atitlan is like a return to the womb.
Travelogue Article Featuring Lago De Atitlan:
Don’t Let Me Be Misunderstood
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